Te Araroa
The Nitty Gritty
The vast majority of this walk follows the TA trail, for which there is lots of information on the official website which I have not attempted to duplicate here. The purpose of this page is to run through the logistics of my adventure - where I stayed and what it cost, and how I made it my own. I spent a lot of time before leaving home searching the internet for the best add-ons and extras; ways to get out of the valleys and add summits and ridgelines, and also ways to be a tourist and see a little of New Zealand beyond the line my feet were walking. So in the hope that it's useful I've included details here of what I added and where those ideas came from. At the time of my journey 1 NZD was about 0.45 GBP TA Home Page
Pre Trail
I like navigating off paper so I printed all of my maps at home and carried them with me, throwing away each sheet as it was used. For a guide I used the excellent TA NOBO site, and in the end followed their suggested days pretty closely. I bought the 6 month TA trail pass (195 NZD) which gives free access to all the standard huts on the trail and discounts off the serviced ones, and also paid the suggested donation to the TA Trust (60 NZD registration fee and 500 NZD donation for walking a single island) Almost all of my kit was stuff I already owned. The only special addition for this trail was a PLB - I bought a McMurdo Fast Find 220. I then had a minor panic about flying via China with it because they don’t like satellite communication devices, and despite lots of research and e-mails couldn’t prove it was definitely ok. So I posted it in advance (UK royal mail will let you send batteries so long as they are in the device) to Jasper at Bluff Freedom Farm and picked it up on my first night. On the way home NZ post would not allow the sending of batteries in any form and I had to risk it with me on the flight. Turned out it was actually fine, though it did get very thoroughly inspected.
Useful Links
Rather that trying to duplicate them, here's the guides I found helpful in planning my journey Trail Notes: NOBO Guide | Te Araroa Official Website (includes all the map downloads) Food: Bike Hike Safari Re-supply Guide Add-ons: DOC Maps | Pack Mule | Sean Maskill's Blog | Michael Deckebach's Blog
Part 1: Stirling Point to Wanaka
Read the Narative Getting to Stirling Point I flew into Auckland and then got a domestic flight to Invercargill. It’s a fairly short walk from the airport into the centre where there are lots of large food shops and a macpac for camping gas. I then used Catch a Bus South to get from Invercargill to Stirling Point (30 NZD) because it was my second day in a new country and I didn’t fancy sticking my thumb out by the side of the road yet. But in hindsight probably much easier (and cheaper) just to hitch. Stirling Point to Highway 94 All walked on the official TA trail. Day 1 9km to Bluff Freedom Farm (trail angel camping/cabins, highly recommend), payment by koha (“gifts” - usually cash but you could be creative), cabin 20 NZD | Day 2 32km to Otatara Beach Road Camping Park, camping, 18 NZD | Day 3 26km to Riverton Holiday Park, camping, 15 NZD | Day 4 12km to Colac Bay Campground, camping, 20 NZD | Day 5 17km to Martin’s Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 6 26km to Merrivale Hut, bunk, 15 NZD | Day 7 27km to Birchwood Station Cabin, bunk, 20 NZD | Day 8 29km to Telford Campsite, camping, Trail Pass | Day 9 21km to Aparima Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 10 17km to Lower Princhester Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 11 6km to Princhester Road end on Highway 94. Food shops - Invercargil, Otatara and Riverton Te Anau I spent 2 nights in Te Anau to have a break, stock up on food and be a tourist. I got there by hitching (which took all of 2 minutes to get a ride) and stayed in a dorm room at Lakefront Backpackers (47 GBP for 2 nights). I used my tourist time to go kayaking on Milford Sound - Roscoes Kayaks do a trip which includes transfer from/to Te Anau and I would happily and highly recommend this, and to do the boat trip + glow worm cave tour from Te Anau. To return to the trail I used the Tracknet shuttle bus (32 NZD) and the driver dropped me directly at the turn off for Mavora Lakes. Highway 94 to Queenstown This section started with the TA trail, then from Greenstone Hut I added the Caples and Routeburn Tracks. The huts on this section are not covered by the trail pass, you can book the Caples/Greenstone huts online (or camp) but the Routeburn as a Great Walk will have sold out months ago. I got round this by camping at the free Greenstone Saddle site then walking the full Routeburn Track in a day. It's a long way but much easier underfoot than the TA and I found this quite easy. As a back-up there are a few places where side trails can get you 500m away from the main trail and you could then freedom camp. Day 13 30km to freedom camp at Mararoa River Bridge (river too high to cross for Kiwi Burn Hut), free | Day 14 27km to Boundary Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 15 21km to Greenstone Hut, camp, Trail Pass (covers camping but not bunks) | Day 16 32km to Greenstone Saddle via Caples Track (shorter route available via Greenstone Track), camp, free | Day 17 26km to Routeburn Shelter Car Park then hitched to Queenstown, Queenstown Nomad Backpackers, dorm bunk, 46 NZD Food shops - Te Anau (off trail) Queenstown to Wanaka Mostly followed the TA except a short diversion up Knuckle Peak - ascent from the Montatapu track up the West Ridge (pathless) and descent down the South East ridge to the col (poled) then down the valley to Highland Creek Hut (pathless) - in hindsight I think descent down the North ridge to regain the Montatapu Track (poled) would be easier Day 18 29km to Arrowtown Holiday Park, camp, 33 NZD | Day 19 23km to Roses Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 20 15km to Fern Burn Hut (via Knuckle Peak as above), bunk, Trail Pass | Day 21 25km to Wanaka, stayed with friend, free Food shops - Queenstown, Wanaka (at this point I also sent ahead 3 food parcels to Arthur's Pass, Boyle Village and St Arnaud)
Part 2: Wanaka to Arthur's Pass
Read the Narative Wanaka to Twizel Mostly walked on the official TA trail. I would very highly recommend the Melina Ridge variant between Top Timaru Hut and Tin Hut, it is a poled route with a (mostly) good path and spectacular views. I also detoured to the bridge over the Ahuriri rather than crossing directly. Day 22 I borrowed a bike and cycled a 40km loop along the TA trail to Lake Hawea and back on the main road to Wanaka, stayed again with my friend, free | Day 23 20km to Stody's Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 24 12km to Top Timaru Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 25 40km to Ahuriri River East bank via Melina Ridge and river bridge, freedom camp | Day 26 27km to Lake Middleton Campsite, camp, 10 NZD | Day 27 29km to Twizel campsite, camp, 45 NZD for 2 nights | Day 28 a "rest day" to hitch to Aoraki (Mt Cook) and recover from mild heatstroke Food shops - Wanaka Twizel to Rangitata River Followed the Alps to Ocean cycle trail to Tekapo - bike hire 95 NZD with Bespoke Bikes who also provide a small day back and transfer your luggage, I booked with 2 days notice. Then the TA trail to the Rangitata. Getting round the river your last phone signal is in Tekapo (or Beuzenperg peak if you're lucky) so I pre-booked a shuttle with Alps to Ocean 130 NZD per person for 4, this took us to Mt Potts Lodge via a stop in Geraldine to resupply. Day 29 53km cycle to Tekapo Lake Edge Lodge, dorm bunk, 75 NZD | Day 30 34km to Camp Stream Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 31 15km to Royal Hut (small detour to add the top of Beusenberg Peak), bunk, Trail Pass | Day 32 15km to Crooked Spur Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 33 9km to Rangitata River then pre-booked shuttle (above) to Mt Potts Lodge, camp, 35 NZD for 2 nights Food shops - Twizel and Tekapo Mt Potts Lodge to Rakaia River All on the TA trail. To get around the Rakaia I used the school bus shuttle to Methven (35 NZD) then we arranged a group transfer with Selwyn Shuttles from Methven to Lake Colleridge Lodge (no record of cost, sorry). While in Methven I took the oportunity for a 6am hot air baloon ride with Adventure Balloons, booked a couple of days in advance. Day 35 34km to Manuka Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 36 21km to Comyns Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 37 14km to Rakaia River then school bus shuttle to Methven, Methven campsite, 20NZD Food shops - Geraldine (off trail) Rakaia River to Arthur's Pass All on the TA Trail Day 38 28km to Harper Campsite, camp, Trail Pass | Day 39 19km Hamilton Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 40 17km to Highway 73 then hitched to Arthur's Pass, Mountail house hostel, twin room 50NZD pp for 2 nights Methven (off trail)
Part 3: Arthur's Pass to Ship Cove
Read the Narative Arthur's Pass to Boyle All on the TA Trail Day 42 14km to Goat Pass Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 43 13km to freedom camp near Morrison Footbridge, free | Day 44 21km to Locke Stream Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 45 24km to Hurunuri Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 46 23km to Hope Halfway Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 47 30km to Magdalen Hut (passing through Boyle), bunk, Trail Pass Food shops - very small "shop" in back of cafe at Arthur's pass, OK for a tinned dinner but not much else, I sent a parcel to Mountain House Boyle to St Arnaud Followed the TA trail to John Tait Hut then added on the Lake Angelus via Cascade Creek and the Robert Ridge - highly recommended. Day 49 25km to Anne Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 50 22km to West Sabine Hut, camp, Trail Pass (covers camping but not bunks) | Day 51 13km to John Tait Hut, camp, Trail Pass (again covers camping but not bunks) | Day 52 15km to Lake Angelus Hut, bunk, green hut ticket (25 NZD bought in advance) Food Shops - none. I sent a box to Boyle Outdoor Centre St Arnaud to Havelock Mostly on the TA but with a diversion along Red Hills Ridge. This was physically the hardest part of my walk and I would only recommend it if you enjoy scrambling. It is unmarked, pathless and very rough. The hardest part is the pinacle just before Red Hill. Day 54 19km to Red Hills Hut | Day 55 21km along Red Hills Ridge to Top Wairoa Hut, floor, Trail Pass | Day 56 13km to Tarn Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 57 13 km to Old Man Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 58 17km to Hacket Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 59 21 km to Captains Hut, bunk, Trail Pass | Day 60 21km to Pelorus Bridge Campsite, camp, 16 NZD | Day 61 21km to Havelock Rutherford Backpackers, dorm bunk, 30 NZD Food Shops - limited and very expensive shop in St Arnaud, I sent a box to Alpine Lodge Havelock to Ship Cove All on the TA trail. I booked all the campsites and water taxi (Cougar Line 90 NZD) before leaving Havelock because I was told there would be no phone signal, but actually had signal most days. Day 62 20km to Davies Bay Campsite, camp, Trail Pass | Day 63 17km to Black Rock Campsite, camp, Trail Pass | Day 64 16km to Camp Bay Campsite, camp, Trail Pass | Day 65 17km to Schoolhouse Bay Campsite, camp, Trail Pass | Day 66 5km to Ship Cove, the end.
Total Cost
A walk of this length can vary dramatically in costs depending on where you stay and what you eat. Having a look back through my bank account I spent a grand total of 2568 GBP (about 5700 NZD) which subdivides into: 1134 GBP (about 2500 NZD) on food 620 GBP (about 1370 NZD) on accommodation (including the Trail Pass) 394 GBP (about 870 NZD) on touristy side trips The rest on shuttle buses etc. and as bits of cash. And quite a bit more (not included in these figures) getting from my home in rural Scotland to the start of the trail and back again.